Paul Smith Debuts ’60s-Inspired Collection at Pitti Uomo SS25

by | Jun 16, 2024

Paul Smith returns to Pitti Uomo to debut his '60s-inspired Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Held at the historic Villa Favard in Florence, this event promises a nostalgic journey through classic designs and introduces a new collaboration with Lee ®.
Paul Smith is excited to announce its return to Pitti Uomo in Florence today, to debut its Spring/Summer 2025 collection. The collection will be presented by Sir Paul himself, who will talk a select audience through the ‘60s-inspired designs.

 

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

 

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

 

 

A Historical Venue with a Bohemian Twist

The presentation took place at Villa Favard, a gorgeously ornate 19th-century villa in the center of Florence, known for its intricate frescoes and grand proportions. For one day only, the villa will be transformed into Bar Paul: a tribute to the Italian cafes that Paul frequented in Soho in the 1960s. Typically open all night, these cafes were a place for people to go after the likes of the Scene Club, Flamingo Club, and Whiskey-A-Go-Go had closed for the evening. Naturally, they drew a bohemian crowd of musicians, artists, and designers who helped to make Soho the epicenter of the creative world at that moment in time. The presentation space will be set up with cafe tables complete with ‘Bar Paul’ branded items such as napkins, coffee cups, sugar packets, and matchboxes, to evoke those after-hours meetups of Soho’s artistic circle.

The Collection: A Tactile Approach to Tailoring

The collection itself expands upon this theme, with a pleasingly louche and tactile approach to tailoring. Ties are worn loosely knotted, paired with denim chore jackets and unstructured blazers in cotton canvas – a look which suggests an artist heading to dinner straight from a day’s painting in the studio. Suits are cut from classic houndstooth and Prince of Wales fabrics, bringing to mind London in the ‘60s, while outerwear uses bold statement fabrics to eye-catching effect. One collection highlight – an oversized trench coat – is constructed from a custom Italian cloth with an exploded pastel check design, based on the Paul Smith Signature Stripe. Soho stalwarts Francis Bacon and Lucian Freud provide key inspiration, and this painterly influence is reflected back into the presentation space with art materials provided by Winsor & Newton. Seating throughout the venue is provided by Artek, in the form of their iconic Stool 60.

Paul Smith’s Personal Touch

Paul will talk through the collection look by look, giving unique insight into the inspiration behind each design, as well as sharing elements of his own personal history that inform key pieces. The presentation will also be an opportunity to announce an exciting new project coming in early 2025: Paul Smith has collaborated with US denim icon, Lee ®. In the early 1970s, Paul began importing painter pants by Lee, to sell in his very first shop in Nottingham. That connection now comes full circle with a capsule of printed denim, jacquard trousers, woven tops, and t-shirts.

 

 

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

“Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo for media/press use.”

 

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