Let them move.
Movement; something so simple yet often so underutilised. A true artform that we can overlook so easily. Saul Nash does not let this pass him by as he creates menswear that can be celebrated not just on the street but in performance as well. His incredible troop of dancers provided their interpretation of both the space and the music as they held the floor for their moves.
Performativity – a word repeatedly associated with narrowing an individual’s self-expression and can provide a box particularly for gender roles (something that is thankfully being broken down in LFWM AW19). Saul seems to embrace and move beyond these confines in providing salient items of clothing that do not need to define; rather give the capacity to reinvent. To perform does not have to mean to internalise and can be taken in antithesis to this actuality. In his AW19 presentation Saul embraces these notions and, with his fluid and easily altered items shows that performativity is not concrete and has the potential to be ‘collapsed and inverted’ to be a part of an individual’s identity rather than defining it. His dual-purpose patterns provide freedom – freedom to remake and reinvent.
Self-liberation can be realised in performance and in inhabiting a space that you are comfortable in. This liberation, in Saul’s eyes, comes through the capacity of dance – a capacity to pave a way for yourself. To be self-made.
Saul does not just stop at making an item of clothing wearable and practical for the ‘Mover and Shaker’. He surprises with technical finesse and a plethora of materials – think three-way stretch nylons for pliability and contrast that with knitwear and denim to add a warmth and stability that is associated with an AW collection. He marries colours seamlessly with warm yellows being contrasted with colder blues and greys to maintain the urban look that we associate with sportswear.
Saul’s clothing triumphed in its multi-faceted nature and his show showed an incredible diversity to boot. We even found ourselves moving our bodies to the rhythm; to a rhythm of self-expression.