The Here and Now
Whilst The Pet Shop Boys’ ‘It’s a Sin’ blared through the speakers for Edward Crutchley’s finale, the garments on display were absolutely angelic. Crutchley’s Autumn/Winter 2019 collection was an orchestra of silhouettes, cuts and textiles. He worked with the theme of ‘taking the best from the past in order to create the best for the future’. With an eye for fashion history, the collection’s nostalgic approach flourished.
Focusing on the idea of “sexy appropriateness” the collection transforms daytime looks into night-time through selective materials associated with the night – notably silk. Crutchley’s own interpretation of occasion wear was particularly interesting particularly the printed silk pyjamas reminiscent of the 1980s, complemented by longline overcoats and generously sized jackets over the top. Despite such a statement, the collection featured even more ‘standout’ pieces such as a coat and a cape with incredibly intricate embroidery.
In collaboration with the iconic Stephen Jones, the millinery aspect of the collection plays on traditional Balinese headwraps as well as Korean gats, finalising the multi-cultural look Crutchley has so cleverly achieved. Whilst his silhouettes uphold international references, the final look possesses a sense of here and now, which arguably is the result of such a successful collection; Crutchley proves to be a designer who will gather multicultural inspirations without the fear of appropriating them, a bold and necessary move in the world of fashion designers.