Make Tailoring Great Again
Milan Fashion Week Men’s AW19
Karl Lagerfeld was both the inspiration and the distinguished contributor to Fendi’s Autumn/Winter 2019 collection, in what has been a series of renowned collaborations over the past few seasons here in Milan. For the collection, Lagerfeld created a stiff-shouldered double-breasted jacket featuring a shawl collar on the right-hand side and a notch on the left. This bold asymmetry in a category of menswear typically defined by its symmetrical approach acted as the forefront for the series of integrally opposing dualities that appeared throughout the line-up. We saw an interplay of calligraphic monogram and futurist logos, the half-and-half jackets and a constant back-and-forth between shine and transparency.
What the use of Karl in collaboration with Venturini Fendi achieved so effectively was a simple reminder; whilst it may seem outdated to many, tailoring is a dynamic form that ceaselessly continues to evolve. This is reinforced by Venturini’s declaration that she wanted to see younger clients explore the dynamism available in such forms of fashion.
It is clear that the A/W19 collection is a visual representation of Largerfeld’s comprehensive understanding of self-expression through menswear – possibly even a homage to his work and where he sees tailoring progressing towards. As Venturini so rightly put it, “I have never seen him wearing sportswear; he is always wearing tailoring in a contemporary way.”